The passionate hiker

The passionate hiker
Early days in the outdoors

Friday, October 30, 2015

Swamp Man

Fri. 30 October:  Miners Point Road Circuit


Swamp Man
Since it’s Halloween tomorrow, it didn’t seem entirely inappropriate that I was wandering around in the swamps today.   Luckily there was no scary Swamp Man to be seen, with or without his axe.

Assuming you have a bike handy, this makes yet another perfect loop, allowing you to enjoy one of the most exciting sections of the Rideau Trail without having to retrace your steps.  It’s also very convenient, as all you have to do is to drop the bike off at Lally Homestead as you drive down to the trailhead on Miner’s Point Road.

The trail was rerouted recently to avoid the construction work behind the monastery.  The new trail was easy to follow as it meandered through the woods, before connecting up with the original route at the first beaver dam.  For the next couple of kilometres I was hopping from one beaver dam to another, as the trail wandered through the swamps.  The secret to a beaver dam is to stay right at the top of the dam, even if there appears to be an easier route just below the dam.  The apparent trail of beaten-down bushes was made by people finding out that the alternative to tip-toeing across a narrow dam will only lead to wet feet and a hasty retreat.

Many of the trail signs through the swamps consisted of wooden posts sticking out of a small stone cairn.  Some of these posts had fallen down.  I did my best to replace them, but it will need work next year by our friends in the Kingston Club.  Overall the signage was very good through the labyrinth, and noticeably better than on my end-to-end journey last year.

There were few birds on the waters, with just an occasional small flock of ducks (I think) taking off silently as I approached.  I saw no herons today – I assumed they have already departed for the winter.

It was with some relief that I emerged onto the lonely gravel road leading to Black Ance Point.  From here, I was on the well-groomed trails of Murphys Point Provincial Park.  These magnificent woodland paths are equally enjoyable in every season of the year.   McParlan House made an ideal rest stop.  It sits in such a perfect setting that I can never resist the temptation to add to my growing collection of photos of the scene.  And so back to Lally Homestead. A cool northwest wind was blowing, but in the protection of the sturdy stone barn foundations, it was warm in the sunshine.

From Lally Homestead back to the monastery was a pleasant bike ride along almost empty roads, the wind at my back.  All too soon I was back at the car, with energy to spare. But more than one trip to the swamps at Halloween would be asking for trouble!

Note:  single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately.

Statistics:
Distance:               7.7 km (hike) + 7.8 km (bike) = 15.5 km total
Height Gain:          Say 80 ft.
Time on Trail:        3 hrs. 11 mins.
Monastery:             9.01 am
McParlan Ho:        10.45 am
Lally Homestd:      11.34 am
Ret. to car:            12.12 pm
Temp.:                   +4C
Weather:                Sunny, cool NW wind

Miners Point Road - start to the hike

Swampy reflections

Most of the leaves have now fallen

In the swamps

Small posts guide the way

A mysterious section of trail

Fall on the Rideau Trail

Colorful artwork inside McParlan House

The wonderful Murphys Point trails

Long shadows at Lally Homestead

My hike/bike circuit


Also enjoy this video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vXq2Mr0x88



Sunday, October 25, 2015

A Better Way

A Better Way:  
Inspiring a different approach to long-distance hiking: 
the journey of Susan Smee along the Rideau Trail


Sue Smee in Perth

Introduction
Many of us, I’m sure, have contemplated a long-distance multi-day hiking journey, but have been put off by the thought of carrying a heavy backpack the whole way.  If only there was an option allowing us to carry a day-pack, and to have places to stay along the trail each night.  Those who have travelled the much-publicised El Camino Trail will tell you that it can work, beautifully.  It is the El Camino which is inspiring the creators of a new trail, still in its earliest planning stages, which will stretch from Algonquin Park to the Adirondacks.  Could it also work as a future vision for the Rideau Trail?
Susan (Sue) Smee, whose home looks out across to the Rideau Trail as it passes along the southern shore of the Ottawa River, herself hiked the El Camino nine years ago.  This special experience in her life gave her an appreciation for what might be called “light-weight long-distance” hiking.  Inspired by later hikes in Scotland, the Rockies, and closer to home in Ontario, Sue became intrigued by the possibility of applying this approach to an end-to-end hike of the Rideau Trail.  This Fall, she put her ideas to the test.  It was a huge success.  In two weeks she walked the Rideau Trail from end to end, carrying only a light pack.  This story explains how she did it.

Southern end of the Rideau Trail in Kingston
Photo by Gloria Daly
The Inspiration  

I asked Sue what had inspired her to walk the Rideau Trail from end to end, a distance of over 330 kilometres.  There were a number of reasons.  Put simply, Sue loves to walk and, like many of us, she deeply appreciates the beauty of nature.  “It’s wonderful to be outside”, she told me.  But there was more to it than that.  A friend of Sue’s once told her that: “When we are not challenging ourselves, that’s when we grow old”.  And Sue finds that she IS stronger in her daily life through facing challenges such as a long-distance walk.  Such a journey can also act as a release from daily responsibilities and challenges, allowing a person to find a better balance in life. 
Sue recommends a book by Ottawa author Dan Rubinstein, titled “Born to Walk”.  Sue said: “Dan loves walking and he writes about how beneficial walking is, and how it contributes to life in so many areas.  I loved the book.”
Sue also talked of her life as a young woman, and the influence of her parents.  “My parents were a really big influence”, she said.  “When we went home as young adults, you talked, you ate, and you always went out for a walk”.  This gave her not only a love of nature, but also the love of being active.

Trailhead Park, Kingston
Photo by Gloria Daly
An Idea is Born
Nine years ago, Sue made a journey along the El Camino pilgrimage trail in Spain.  It was possible to travel with a reasonably light load, due to the support infrastructure along the way, with places to stay and supportive communities along the route.  Then on a hiking trip across the Isle of Skye in Scotland, Sue and a friend were able to travel light thanks to the support of people along the way.  These experiences reinforced in Sue’s mind that carrying a forty pound pack on your back for days on end was not something that appealed to her.  Nor would it appeal to many of us – especially as we grow older!  
It was her experience that, in Canada, as opposed to Europe, it is harder to avoid carrying heavy loads, as our Country is so huge and relatively empty.  Wanting to put her “lightweight travel” theory to the test, last year Sue walked in the Golden Lake area of Ontario, near Algonquin Park.  She hiked on backroads and was able to find enough places to stay, and the right support network, to allow her to walk with only a light day pack.  So now Sue was ready to try something more challenging.
Back in 1988, Sue moved to Ottawa from the Prairies.  She quickly became aware of the Rideau Trail, and did several hikes with the Rideau Trail Association (RTA) clubs.  Asking an RTA colleague about the idea of hiking light along the Rideau Trail, the surprising, and inspiring, reply was “Of course you can!”.   So now Sue was determined to put the theory to the test.

Trailhead Park, Kingston
Photo  by Sheila Parry
Building a Plan
I knew that walking the trail was going to be a piece of cake compared to the planning”, Sue told me.  In March of this year, Sue attended a presentation on the Rideau Trail in Perth, and took the opportunity at that session to announce her intention to make this journey.  Immediately, offers of help started to come in, and gradually things fell into place.  Kind folks, who had perhaps never envisaged offering their homes and their support to a complete stranger, found themselves part of this exciting new “experiment”. 
A few years ago, Sue adopted a Buddhist practice.  This includes making “determinations”, or statements of intent.   This gives a person a strong focus on meeting a stated goal:  “Yes, I can do that”.  Sue made a determination that she would complete this journey, however hard it may be along the way.  This mental preparedness proved to be a key ingredient in the successful outcome. 
Physical readiness was also vital.  “I don’t think I could have lasted if I was not physically prepared”, said Sue.  In the weeks leading up to the walk, Sue travelled 320 kilometres along the trails of Ottawa and area.  Limited by not having her own car, Sue made use of the section of Rideau Trail beside her home in Ottawa, while noting that the Gatineau Hills, where she trained for the El Camino, would be better training ground for some of the rugged country along the Rideau Trail.  Nevertheless, she was now mentally and physically prepared.

Marshlands Conservation Area, Kingston
Photo by Gloria Daly
The Journey
As far as the journey itself was concerned, Sue literally took it all in her stride.   In the weeks immediately preceding her trip, Sue had already hiked several times along the section of trail from Bells Corners in western Ottawa, past her home, to the end of the trail below Parliament Hill.  So her two week continuous journey, between September 18th and October 2nd took her from Kingston north to Bells Corners.   She walked with only a light day pack on her back, staying each night with a network of supporters which she had created during the planning stages of her journey.  On only five nights did she use a campsite, hotel or bed and breakfast.    The logistics worked exactly to plan. 
Sue was overwhelmed by the kindness of people who offered her a bed to stay, and/or their support along the way.  When I asked her what advice she would give to hikers considering a similar journey, her reply was short:  “Be a considerate guest”.  This is an indication of her gratefulness to these new found friends.  It is also a window into her own approach to life. 
The reader may be interested to learn that there are several bed and breakfasts close to the Rideau Trail.  Sue found two very special B&Bs, one near Merrickville, and the other in Richmond.  Her hosts went well beyond the call of duty to make her journey enjoyable and memorable. 
The highlight for Sue was at the Gypsy Cove near Merrickville, where hosts Jean and Don left with her an indelible memory of the unexpected kindness of the human soul.  By shuttling her to and from trailheads, they enabled her to reduce by ten kilometres what would have been an extremely long day.  Sue was amazed how her hosts had taken the time to figure out how best to help her, and then would not take “no” for an answer.  “Those two people were just very special; the most wonderful couple”, she told me. 

Bedford Mills
Photo by Robert Charest
Highlights and Challenges
I asked Sue what the highlight of her journey had been.  Expecting her to name a favourite location, perhaps Flagpole Hill or Spy Rock, I was surprised by her reply.  “It was being able to lie in the sunshine below a large tree and to look up at the sky – to experience moments of beauty such as these.”  She said.  “However hard the walking, as long as I paid attention to what I could see, what I could hear, and how I felt, I was fine”.  And the walking was physically demanding.  Sue found that twenty kilometres each day was the right distance for her.  On several days she walked 25 kilometres or longer; these were “really long days”. 
Sue encountered a few challenges along the way, as one might expect, with route-finding and watery sections, but it was three encounters with cows which she found the most unnerving.  Said Sue, “I’m a prairie girl.  I have no issue with cows.  But these cows seemed determined to surround me, and it was a little unsettling”.  Readers will empathise with the situation of a hiker in the middle of a large field, trying to spot that next orange triangle, while being surrounded by a large herd of cows! 
She also found it very challenging to keep her feet dry.  “There were times when my feet would get wet with the morning dew, or where the trail needed signage or maintenance, but those were minor frustrations compared with the cows!” she told me.  Summing it up in one short sentence, Sue explained that “You have to be resourceful and have patience”.

A successful challenge
Reflections
As Sue put it, “We are indeed so fortunate to be living in Canada.  I can leave my room in a nice apartment and walk alone without fear”.   For Sue, a long-distance walk such as this is one way of helping her find the right balance in life so that, as she so elegantly put it, “I can be happy and I can be contributing”.   
And a final word of advice from Sue about relaxing after your journey:  “Don’t fill your calendar with five hundred things to do the day after you get home”!   In other words, give yourself time to reflect on your journey and to adjust your life goals.
Sue’s success will, I hope, inspire others to take another look at the Rideau Trail in perhaps a different light, and to ask themselves, “Can I use this as a new inspiration and a new approach for my next journey?”   
Many congratulations to Sue for her strong vision for the future, her inspiration for others, and - of course - for joining the distinguished ranks of the successful Rideau Trail end-to-enders.

The Passionate Hiker
October 2015

Saturday, October 24, 2015

Snapshots from the Blue Mountains

19-24 October:  Snapshots from the Blue Mountains


This was my first visit to the famous Bruce Trail, and it won’t be the last.

Over four days, our team of hikers sampled four of the many gems of the Blue Mountains.  Blessed with good weather, we explored several sections of the Bruce Trail, clambering up to the line of escarpments, exploring rocky crevices and enjoying superb views of valleys and ocean.  And lots more.

A huge debt of gratitude is owed to our hike leaders, whose thorough planning and guidance made this a memorable week in the hills.

From Perth to Thornbury it’s just over four hundred kilometres by road.  The further west we drove, the busier the roads, as we were drawn into the gravitational pull of Toronto.  It seemed like a long way from Georgian Bay to Toronto, but there are fast roads running north from the city, allowing urban folk easy weekend access to their homes or cottages.

Thornbury sits beside Georgian Bay, and is a little quieter than the beach resorts eastwards along the bay.  We stayed in a nice resort hotel on the harbour-front, with large suites facing the ocean.

The Beaver River valley runs southwards into the rolling hills, which are rather grandly called the Blue Mountains.  Behind Thornbury the hills come to a steep end, forming part of the long Niagara Escarpment.  It is here in those hills that the Bruce Trail meanders on its long eight hundred and ninety kilometre journey from Niagara in the south to Tobermory in the north. 

This is apple growing country.  Apples were the theme of our six-day stay. The farmers were busy loading large boxes with apples from the large expanse of orchards.  Often we would come across wild apple trees on our hikes, plucking ripe apples from the trees as we passed by.  On two evenings we enjoyed delicious apple pies and local apple cider.

Each day we explored a section of the Bruce Trail and its side trails.  It was never dull hiking. 

Day One took us to the Silent Valley, which was not so silent that day as our group of nine hikers made our way through the forest and up onto the escarpment and back down again.  We were very fortunate to have an extremely knowledgeable guide that first day, by the name of Barry Westhouse.  Barry had been at the opening of the Rideau Trail at Foley Mountain back in 1971.  He’s still going strong, helping to keep the Bruce Trail in good shape.  His interests include railways and so there was plenty to talk about, in addition to learning so much about the trail itself.  Nobody could ask for a better introduction to the Bruce Trail than to spend a day in the company of Barry.

We reached a fine lookout where we stopped for lunch, before completing our loop back to the car.  Earlier we had seen an old homestead site with the deep well safely cordoned off, the remains of a gigantic barn, the stone foundations still in place.  We passed the site of a small plane crash which many years ago killed four people, and we enjoyed clambering around the rocky escarpment, with its many crevices and cracks.

On Day Two we explored another section of the escarpment, where at Metcalfe Crevice we dropped down behind the cliff on slippery rock, into a secret cavernous crevice, before emerging on the other side. Later we saw a huge rock which had fallen off the cliff face, and which was called Pinnacle Rock. 

The following day, Day Three, we experienced superb ocean views from the escarpment above the Collingwood-to-Thornbury coastal road.  This highland area was called the Loree Forest.

Finally on Day Four, we hiked above the Beaver Valley to the finest viewpoint of them all, at Old Baldy, where we took turns to stand of the edge of a precipitous cliff so that others might take spectacular pictures of the scene.  Here Old Baldy rose one hundred and fifty metres (almost five hundred feet) above the valley below.  Not spectacular by some standards, but nevertheless highly scenic.

In summary, the hiking was excellent, and ever-changing as we climbed up escarpments, down into valleys, across sturdy footbridges, through colorful forests, sampling short sections of this grand long-distance trail.

In some ways, the Bruce Trail was similar to the Rideau Trail, following a twisting route through forest, beside fields, over rocks.  But the Bruce Trail in this section is a lot more hilly.  The signs were excellent, markers being found perhaps at twice the frequency than on the Rideau Trail.  Both the main trail and the side trails were in a very good state of maintenance.  Apparently each maintainer gets two or three kilometres to look after.  Work done is logged in a central on-line database. 

The Bruce Trail Conservancy is wealthy certainly in comparison with the Rideau Trail Association (RTA), and they buy sections of land as part of a long term goal to eventually have a protected route the whole length of the trail.  In the meantime, they, as the RTA, are often subject to the whims of landowners.

Each morning, as we gathered outside the hotel, we enjoyed the changing ocean, mostly with waves of different sizes depending on the direction of the wind.  One day was overcast but the others were spectacularly sunny.  From our hilltop viewpoint on Day 3, we could just make out the northern shore of Georgian Bay, about a hundred kilometres distant.  Such was the clarity of the air.

We had several photographers in our party, so there will be a comprehensive record of our journeys.  Here are some of this author’s photos for your enjoyment. 


Statistics Summary:
Number of hikes:           4
Total distance hiked:     37.4 km
Total  time on trail:       17 hrs. 6 mins.

Statistics Hike 1: Silent Valley
Distance:               8.4 km (hike)
Height Gain:         Say 500 ft.
Max. Elev:            1234 ft
Time on Trail:       3 hrs. 55 mins.
Start:                       9.48 am
Lookout:               12.22 pm
Car:                         1.43 pm
Temp.:                   Between +15 and +17C
Weather:                Mix of sun and thin cloud

Statistics Hike 2: Metcalfe Crevice
Distance:               11.6 km (hike)
Height Gain:         Say 1000 ft.
Max. Elev:            1631 ft
Time on Trail:       5 hrs. 7 mins.
Start:                       9.48 am
Lunch:                   11.47 am
Car:                         2.31 pm
Temp.:                   Between +11 and +12C
Weather:                Cloudy.  Short showers

Statistics Hike 3: Loree Forest
Distance:               9.6 km (hike)
Height Gain:         Say 400 ft.
Max. Elev:            1480 ft
Time on Trail:       4 hrs. 18 mins.
Start:                       9.26 am
Lunch:                  11.17 am
Car:                         1.44 pm
Temp.:                   Between +11 and +13C
Weather:                Sunny, NW wind

Statistics Hike 4: Old Baldy
Distance:               7.8 km (hike)
Height Gain:         Say 400 ft.
Max. Elev:            1532 ft.
Time on Trail:       3 hrs. 46 mins.
Start:                     10.38 am
Lunch:                  12.14 pm
Lookout:                 1.54 pm
Car:                         2.24 pm
Temp.:                   +6C
Weather:                Sunny

Note:  single-click on the first picture below to scroll through the photos separately.

Day 1:  Silent Valley



Sunrise over Georgian Bay

Our hiking party

We took the time to snap plenty of photos

Plane crash site in the Silent Valley

A hole in the escasrpment

Our knowledgeable host briefs us on the next leg of our journey

This side trail leads to a superb lookout...

...where we could see back to our trailhead in the valley

Discussion about the meaning of the blue "T" sign

Statue on his pedestal


Day 2:  Metcalfe Crevice





The Day 2 hiking team

A hiking version of the Drivers Handbook

One of several sturdy bridges on the Bruce Trail

Clambering up the escarpment

Scenes of autumn

Looking down into the Metcalfe Crevice...

...which turns out to be our route!

Plunging down into the hole...

...where it's quite slippery and steep in places

We meet a local resident along the trail...,

...but he's not as tall as we thought

Nice views from the escarpment near The Pinnacle rock

Consulting the map

Beautiful trail swings down from the escarpment

Day 3:  Loree Forest




Another fine morning at Thornbury

Our lakeside hotel

Kayaker braving the rough waters...

...seems to disppear but then reappears!

Our trailhead in the Loree Forest

A patient team waits for the photographer to snap this pic

Grand views down to Georgian Bay

Handy side trail off the main Bruce Trail

Helpful sign

Lots of delicious ripe apples along the way

Our ski hill lunch stop

Team photo...

...but their shadows aren't behaving so well!

Emerging from the Loree Forest at the end of the hike



Day 4:  Old Baldy


Sailboat leaves Thornbury Harbour

Today's crew

We found large strips of bark

In the woods below the escarpment

A huge fungus

Climbing up through a slot in the escarpment

Team waits for the late straggler

Trailhead for Old Baldy

First views of the Beaver Valley

Old Baldy Lookout

Admiring the grand views

Picture on the interpretive sign....

...and the actual view

In this area, John Muir once lived as a young man