The Passionate Hiker: Ware Creek to South Volcano Ridge

Fri. 19 July: Ware Creek to South Volcano Ridge

South Volcano Ridge and the Front Ranges behind

Today I was on the lookout for flood damage on the trails below Volcano Ridge. At one time, easy access to this area could be gained by driving down the Ware Creek road from Millarville. Many years ago this road was closed at the Ware Creek bridge on the west side of the steep hill from Threepoint Creek. Since the floods closed the Gorge Creek road from the Sheep River, the only way in at the moment is by bike.

There were some rough spots on the hill section, and erosion along the edges of the road. Luckily there was no traffic so I avoided putting my wheels in a ditch. A huge owl launched itself from its perch beside the road as I drove by. There is a double fenced barricade marking the end of the driveable road. The surface beyond this barrier was ideal for mountain biking.

It’s ten kilometres to the trailhead at the old decommissioned Volcano Creek picnic area. There is a gentle uphill grade, with one short steep downhill section in the middle. The sun was rising above the low hills in a cloudless sky. This is a pretty route through gentle valleys.

About a hundred metres from the turnoff to the trailhead, I came to the only major sign of flood damage. The road had been washed away at a small creek. Corrugated metal culverts lay in a heap below the gaping gap in the road surface. It was a fairly easy detour around the destruction. I wonder if they will ever bother to repair the damage?

At the trailhead there was a hunters camp with several log stools around a fire circle. I tied a rope between two adjacent trees and hoisted the bike up off the ground, just in case any hungry tire-eating porcupines were around. I had never bothered to do this before, and I am sure it was totally unnecessary, but it was fun to do, and might be a handy skill some time.

The route up to South Volcano Ridge was familiar to me. My first journey up this trail had been over twenty years ago. This direct route, once called Link Trail, has apparently been decommissioned, although it’s obviously in common use. After a long flat section it suddenly takes off up the hillsides at a steep angle. There was some sign of erosion from the floods, but not significant. Passing the huge rock slide on the slopes of Volcano mountain, I soon arrived at the col between Volcano Ridge on my right and the much more volcanic-looking South Volcano Ridge to my left.

I was soon at the top of the South ridge, where I enjoyed a snack with panoramic views all round. The visibility was good. The gentle slopes of Volcano Ridge to the north, Surveyors Ridge to northwest, and the bare peak of Mt. Ware to the west all stood out clearly in the bright sunshine.

A few small clouds were starting to form over the mountains. It was a warm day even up here on the high ridges. My return journey took me down Cockerton’s Corkscrew, a journey I had made in snowshoes last winter (November 2012). This well-named trail plunged to the valley below and showed no damage from the heavy rains and floods.

As I strolled back through the woods and meadows I passed a herd of cows and calves. They moved nervously off the path. I might have been the first person they had seen for a while.

One of the best things about the Ware Creek road is that it is mostly downhill on the return journey. I made good time whizzing down the gentle hills, stopping to admire the open meadows and gentle landscape. Just after I arrived back at the closed gate, three hikers were setting out along the road with their dog. I had biked a little way up the road to the bridge so did not have a chance for a chat.

I had been very curious to see the Sheep River flood damage and especially the fate of the Indian Oils bridge at Tiger Jaw Falls. So I drove down to Turner Valley and west up the Sheep River. A major culvert was being installed not far west of the town, but then the road was not impacted until Gorge Creek. Here the river had undermined the steep banks beside the road and the river itself had swept away many trees.

Arriving at Indian Oils picnic area I walked down the track to the bridge – which had disappeared! This sturdy metal road bridge had been the link to the Junction Hill fire lookout and was the only bridge access for hikers to the south side of the river. There were large piles of trees beside the Falls, and bare rock where once the bridge had been fastened to the ground. Two thick iron bars, which once held down the bridge, were bent horizontal. But where was the bridge? I walked along the banks above the river below the falls. Far downstream, at least two or three hundred metres away, wedged into the cliffs, was a twisted pile of metal and tree trunks. Here was the last resting place of the Sheep River bridge. The forces of destruction must have been overwhelming. See my separate blog entry.

I continued to the end of the road, past the Bluerock campsite which was already full, with more campers arriving. A large chunk of road by Sheep Falls had been eaten away. At the far end, a large group of cowboys and cowgirls was preparing for a trip into the backcountry. Several huge horse trailers were starting to be unloaded. This was no tourist trip. These were working farmers heading out on a task perhaps to check on cattle or mend fences.

The warm afternoon air was full of swooping dragonflies, feasting on the mosquitoes I suppose. Recovery from the floods was well under way, and the valley would be full up for the weekend. But there would be few if any visitors to the - now even remoter - areas across the Sheep River, until a new bridge is built!

Statistics:

Total Distance: 20.0 (bike)+8.0 (hike) = 28.0 km

Height Gain: 1,755 ft.

Max. Elev.: 6,350 ft.

Time on Trail: 5 hrs. 24 mins.

Dep. Ware Ck: 6.40 am

Volcano trailhead: 7.59 am

S Volcano Peak: 9.42 am

Ret. to bike: 10.58 am

Ret. to car: 12.04 pm

Temp: +9 to +24 deg.C

Weather: Sunny, a few clouds building up